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Im looking at a Stage 1 ECU remap next year. Not wanting to remove DPF or do EGR delete.
im just after options Preferably in SE Qld or N NSW.
Location/Installer?, Gains?, Cost?, Any Issues?
Other than overwriting a tune that has probably thousands of expert man-hours of exhaustive testing and analysis including engine and drive-train reliability and durability, performance and economy, emissions, etc, by someone who hasn't undertaken this sort of testing and won't take over the manufacturer's vehicle warranty, and the fact that you will wipe out any manufacturer warranty you have on the vehicle - no downsides that I can see.
I’m looking at when my warranty is just about over.
I also think if the new model which has the same motor has more power, it can’t be too bad.
But, thanks for your suggestion. Warranty concerns noted.
Nothing gona happen just do stage one .. and i can do it for you- don’t listen anyone comments like the one above- only from nasa trained people- like the comment above:)
of course don’t even get my comment seriously
From experience people after they do tune on their cars - it does drives better fuel consumption is better .. power torque..
now emissions- whole car industry is cheating.. so what is one car more-
durability- obviously it will last longer-🤔 unless enginer above prove oposit - mate you can destroy engine in year and some people cars after few 100s kms still drive like new-
its always person behind wheel
warranty- they don’t have a clue is the car “tuned” - unless you tell them - of course they can check but then every dealership would need to employ few extra people just to check every car that comes does it have remapped files in their ecu
oli - I assume that once you have applied your 'u beaut mates tune' you will provide a full written warranty on the vehicle so that when VW use the 'this car has been modified outside of its design parameters' as an excuse not to pay out any warranty claim on the engine or drive-train . . . you will pay up. And of course VW engineers were just too stupid to extract all that free extra performance goodness at no cost to reliability, durability, economy that can magically be extracted by simply editing a few bits of code.
All of the vehicle systems are interrelated, change one thing and it affects something else - so add some extra boost get some extra performance which looks great on the dyno but also increases blow by, increasing the pressure in the crankcase which vents oil soaked gasses into the inlet manifold, clogging them with carbon from EGR and creates more exhaust carbon which clogs the DPF, etc, etc. Push more torque through your drive-train and break CVs or transmissions and things start getting expensive fast.
So the first question I would ask of any tuner/chip provider is 'will you step in to warranty the vehicle if the manufacturer refuses a repair on the basis that you have modified the vehicle'. I haven't found one that will. They will either just warranty 'the tune' (whatever that means) or tell you 'the manufacturer never know'. Every time you bring your car into a dealer its plugged into a computer - they're not as stupid as backyard tuners would like you to believe.
Ive had these same conversations in other rok forums, and most people are aware that you run the risk of VW blaming your tune for an issue somewhere else on your car. So I am aware of this risk.
ive read stories or warranty work still being done on tuned cars as well, however, I am looking post-warranty (my rok only has a 3 year warranty) to have a tune done.
with regards to causing issues, I think a lot of it comes down to who does it and what you ask of them. Realistically speaking, as I mentioned above, the same motor in the 2019 model now has 580nm of torque over the 2018 spec 550nm and improved power as well.
the ZF gearbox is capable (and this is from spec) of up to 1000nm, not that I’m chasing that.
And whilst I agree with many of your statement, some people are willing to take a risk and tune there vehicles. I’ve also installed a suspension lift... so broken CV could just as easily be blamed on the increased angle on the CV.
I know if I blow up my engine the tuning company is likely to say I caused the issue or something else broke and VW are likely to blame the tune... but again, this is my risk.
i didn’t want this post to be a “are you for or against tuning”... I was after people who have had tunes, where, when, how much, who did it and any complaints or issues.
doinitsideways - As long as you go into it with your eyes open and are making an informed decision and understand the risks/downsides (as well as the upsides) I'd say go for it. Although, I have no doubt there are many who are probably much less informed than you and unquestionably believe all of the sales hype.
Interestingly, when looking at a LC200 and the Perth Caravan and Camping show late last year, a salesman from a major Perth Toyota dealership (in their display tent) offered to a chip a new vehicle purchased from them and claimed significantly improve torque and power (from memory ~800nm). When I asked him about the warranty his response was it can be removed and 'Toyota' would never know. I said - 'fantastic! sounds great, put that in writing' at which time he wandered off never to talk to me again. A LC200 is probably not a vehicle you want to be doing major repairs to an engine or drive-train on, things get expensive real fast.
I'm not against mods per se - suspension mods are probably a good example where suspension has been designed as a compromise. For example between on and off-road handling, without knowing what the purchaser intends to do that's a compromise the manufacturer needs to make - how many Prado's do you see doing the school run and will never go off road and therefore need to be 'compromised' towards better on-road handling which adversely impacts its off-road handling. The end user may decide that more off-road ability better matches their use, and mod accordingly.
With regard to the warranty, be aware that just because the manufacturer has decided on a 3 year/1000K km warranty, that doesn't override your statutory rights. You could (should) go back to a manufacturer if (for example) you had a major component failure on the expectation that this component could reasonably be expected to last beyond the manufacturer stipulated warranty period (which legally has no basis). Although with the rash of 5 year unlimited warranties, we consumers are probably much better covered in terms of our expectations being matched by manufacturer warranties.
There countless threads about tunes etc on the forum
Best bet would be to contact a few and ask your questions directly to them. Three that come to mind are J-Tech, CRD Tech or Wolf 4x4
I’ve had a chat to a euro car shop in Brisbane who use a Revo tune. Stage 1, $1200 with no Dyno...
ill look into some of the ones you mention. Happy to chase the installers, but I’d prefer to talk to people who have had it done...
I never wanted a tune but had to have an egr delete so got a tune done at the same time. It’s fantastic . Mine was done at Yatala by one of crispmods associates. I strongly recommend the egr delete . It dill bite you eventually if you don’t.
I live on the goldy @deanp100 . Are you in V6 or 4 banger? Would be keen to sit in the passenger seat if it’s a V6...
i run a catch can to limit the oily mist mixing with the egr...
I kinda thought I’d hit the 3 year out of warranty and get a stage 1, when the dpf starts to clog up id go for a dpf/egr delete and a stage 2 tune...
id likely sell it between 8 and 10 years old... would have around 250 to 300k on the clock by then.
Mine is a 2012 4cyl. I noticed the difference when I had it done but I am used to it now so I can’t really remember the difference. I did a head gasket from the egr cooler letting go so I had the egr block off done and I am happy now I did. I got to see inside the inlet manifold after 275 000 kms and it wasn’t pretty. Not blocked off or anything but a layer of sludge probably 3-4 mm thick. I have never played with the dpf and have had the light come on twice in 7years. I drive gently but with a lot of highway. When it came on I did a bit of google research and did some highway drives at 3000 rpm, not just over 2000 like a lot seem to say. Once the light went out I pushed on hard for a bit longer and it has never been a problem again. I am at 340000 kms now. Ute is running as good as it ever has now.
Yeah, I have photos from when I cleaned out the intake of my sr5 after 300 thou km.
i scraped it out with a tablespoon.., was about 15mm thick all round... never had a catch can on it though... that’s why the rok got catch can straight after pickup.
id prefer to keep my DPF in for now... see what I do if and when it plays up...
thanks for the info Dean...