Forced dpf regeneration

deanp100deanp100 Member
edited July 2018 in Engine
Does anyone know if the forced regeneration of the dpf is more effective then the normal one that happens when driving. I have an engine light on and fault relates to dpf and some big highway blasts haven’t fixed it. I am thinking that a delete may be the answer?
Cheers
Deano

Comments

  • Nick_SNick_S Junior Member
    edited July 2018
    To be honest I don't know but son in law had one done on his about 6 months ago & no issues since. Of course delete will sort it forever but as you probably know, is illegal��.
  • deanp100deanp100 Member
    edited July 2018
    I have spent so much money chasing fault lights and repairs i am past caring about illegal. I am sick of hearing “ you can only get genuine parts and that will be $5000 regardless of what part it is.
    On that note has anyone else got a rok on 300000 kms and not had a dpf problem.
    Cheers
    Deano
  • deanp100deanp100 Member
    edited July 2018
    Quick rundown on all my problems. Had the egr cooler let go a year ago and had it blocked off and tuned out but 12 months later it bit me by blowing the head gasket. Car went into limp mode, blowing steam, overheating and all sorts of ****. Had the head replaced and new radiator fitted but kept everything else original. All fault codes were deleted. It said they related to egr cooler pump and dpf. The car was running beautifully after the head work and manifold clean but within the day started going into limp mode with the coil light and eventually threw an engine light that sometimes reset. Eventually the engine light stayed permanently on and went limp half a dozen times a day. A trip to mechanic for an unrelated abs fault showed the egr pump and dpf codes again. They again deleted them and I took the car for an 8 hr drive to the hunter valley and back which should have burned out the dpf. I sourced a second hand egr pump as I wasn’t paying the quoted 700 to fit a new one. Had it fitted and mechanic again reported the dpf fault was back. I was planning to do a dpf delete but never got a reply from the local crispmods agent. Some YouTubing showed people clearing the fault with an extended run over 3000 rpm so I gave it a blast but the light persisted.
    I dropped into a euro specialist on the coast here and plugged in there diagnostics. First reports showed the dpf was full and probably buggered but he had several readings for the percentage of present ash and some showed negative values rather than positive so he suggested the sensor could be the trouble. He deleted the code again and I ordered a sensor from the UK but have now been driving for a week perfectly . It seems the 3000 rev burn may have worked and only needed to manually delete the light. At the moment I have a new head, a clean manifold, lots of compression and no fault lights.
  • EdwinPEdwinP Forum Slave
    edited July 2018
    What a saga mate sounds very frustrating and stressful for you, have you since bypassed the egr with one of the [MENTION=7760]J-Tech[/MENTION] kits?

    Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk
  • deanp100deanp100 Member
    edited July 2018
    Yep, egr was blocked off by one of crispmods men but damage was obviously already done. This also created another problem as after the coolant pipes were diverted from the split egr the split water chamber was open to the engine bay and the exhaust system. Hence hot gas under high revs was pumped out the coolant nipples dir3ctly onto my vacuum hoses. I lost brakes twice before we realised what was going on. I must point out this all happened fairly recently . Before that I had 5 years of trouble free high kilometre driving.
  • sikhabibsikhabib Junior Member
    edited July 2018
    deanp100 wrote: »
    Quick rundown on all my problems. Had the egr cooler let go a year ago and had it blocked off and tuned out but 12 months later it bit me by blowing the head gasket. Car went into limp mode, blowing steam, overheating and all sorts of ****. Had the head replaced and new radiator fitted but kept everything else original. All fault codes were deleted. It they related to egr cooler pump and dpf. The car was running beautifully after the head work and manifold clean but within the day started going into limp mode with the coil light and eventually threw an engine light that sometimes reset. Enetuallt the engine light stayed permanently and went limp half a dozen times a day. A trip to mechanic for an unrelated abs fault showed the egr pump and dpf codes again. They again deleted them and I took the car for an 8 hr drive to the hunter valley and back which should have burned out the dpf. I sourced a second hand egr pump as I wasn’t paying the quoted 700 to fit a new one. Had it fitted and mechanic again reported the dpf fault was back. I was planning to do a dpf delete but never got a reply from the local crispmods agent. Some YouTubing showed people clearing the fault with an extended run over 3000 rpm so I gave it a blast but the light persisted.
    I dropped into a euro specialist on the coast here and plugged in there diagnostics. First reports showed the dpf was full and probably buggered but he had several readings for the percentage of present ash and some showed negative values rather than positive so he suggested the sensor could be the trouble. He deleted the code again and I ordered a sensor from the UK but have now been driving for a week perfectly . It seems the 3000 rev burn may have worked and only needed to manually delete the light. At the moment I have a new head, a clean manifold, lots of compression and no fault lights.

    How frustrating!!
    How much did it cost when you had the head replaced??
  • deanp100deanp100 Member
    edited July 2018
    7000 in the end but I got some extra parts like radiators fitted. I just posted on your other thread.

    Deano
  • Anthony777Anthony777 Junior Member

    Hi Dean

    So you are saying the hot gas from the egr was exhausting onto the brake booster vacuum hose and split the pipe?

    Shouldn't the exhaust gas be blocked from the EGR when it was deleted?

    I recently had a similar issue, but i thought the vacuum hose had melted after falling onto something else. My egr also has a bypass installed, but the actual valve is still installed.

    I was wondering if physically removing it would help?









    Yep, egr was blocked off by one of crispmods men but damage was obviously already done. This also created another problem as after the coolant pipes were diverted from the split egr the split water chamber was open to the engine bay and the exhaust system. Hence hot gas under high revs was pumped out the coolant nipples dir3ctly onto my vacuum hoses. I lost brakes twice before we realised what was going on. I must point out this all happened fairly recently . Before that I had 5 years of trouble free high kilometre driving.

  • Hi Anthony. The egr cooler was left in place and a blanking plate was installed on the exit side of the egr. The coolant pipes were rerouted around the egr cooler . The cooling chamber on the egr cooler is now sitting there unused with 2 pipes sticking out that just happen to point straight at the vacuum lines. My cooling chamber is obviously cracked enough that the exhaust gas under running pressure is forcing through the crack and exiting the coolant pipes attachment points and cooking my vacuum hoses. Some liquid steel blocked the coolant pipes and all was good. My mechanic thought they had also touched something hot until on the second set in two days he happened to feel the puff of gas out of the pipe.

  • Anthony777Anthony777 Junior Member

    Hi Dean

    I got some EGR blanking plates from Josh @CRDtech, very helpful guy.

    And have now removed my EGR totally. Before I did this, my DPF and Check Eng. light have come on, with the Coil light flashing.

    Personally I would recommend removing the EGR totally....

  • In hindsight , probably .

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