Long range tank

davedave Supporting Member
edited October 2018 in Amarok General Discussions
Has anybody fitted a long range tank yet?
Brown Davis do a 145ltr replacement tank (VWAR1) and claim not to loose any ground clearence over standard tank. The MFD would probably have no idea how many k's were left in the tank and I would assume it could'nt be recalibrated.
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Comments

  • AZZAAZZA Member
    edited March 2012
    GDay Dave, I am also looking at a long range tank from Brown Davis in the future. Will be interested how she fits. The computer might " learn " how to read, if the same sender is used the "average fuel used" cycle could re calculate. Dont know just thinking out loud.
  • LynchieLynchie Posting Freak
    edited March 2012
    Hi Dave, I posted the same question about a month ago and also had no one fess up to having installed one yet. If only BDA had made the tanks 160L so that the bars on the fuel guage display would equal 20L as they currently equal 10L. Just me being fussy (otherwise with a 145L tank they would equal 18.125L). But as you suggested Azza, whether if using the same sender would trick the computer? Unfortunately I would assume that all the fuel tank perimeters are on the MFD/CPU as the default specifications, therefore can not change by being tricked. Seemingly as all the other default perimeters on the CPU they do get changed but by being flashed or reprogrammed by a tech when updates/recalls are performed. The The other option would be to fit a scanguage II which would provide the neccessary info plus alot more. Guess it will be a mexican standoff to see who will put their hand up first to be the guinea pig on this one!
  • davedave Supporting Member
    edited March 2012
    Hi Lynchie. I did a search first but I must have missed your thread or post. I thought the 145lts wasn't to bad (there aint much room) as I think some other makes are only 130lts. The problem I forsee is the tank may bulge out at the top over the tailshaft to achieve the volume, resulting in the gauge reading about 3/4 when it maybe be less than 1/2 full. Oh well, we'll wait and see.
    cheers dave
  • landdog1landdog1 Senior Member
    edited March 2012
    Hi i have had long range tanks 3 different cars and what normally happens is with my last car with long range tank holden rodeo 120l tank you drive for hundreds of kms then the gauge would start to work so at half a tank you you had about 40l left, so the DTE would only work when the fuel gauge started to drop below full, until then it will think the tank is full and the DTE will not be accurate, but I am still looking at getting one as I tow a caravan and the more fuel you have the better. Cheers Craig
  • davedave Supporting Member
    edited March 2012
    landdog1 wrote:
    Hi i have had long range tanks 3 different cars and what normally happens is with my last car with long range tank holden rodeo 120l tank you drive for hundreds of kms then the gauge would start to work so at half a tank you you had about 40l left, so the DTE would only work when the fuel gauge started to drop below full, until then it will think the tank is full and the DTE will not be accurate, but I am still looking at getting one as I tow a caravan and the more fuel you have the better. Cheers Craig
    As I thought may be the case. I do have a ScangaugeII but I don't think it will be accurate when the tank is not symmetrical (not in the middle section anyway). I suppose you can always use the trip meter to give a better idea of how much fuel you should have because the gauge may indicate 145lts when in fact you might have less than 90-100lts. Nothing's easy. With every action there is a reaction.
    cheers
  • LeonFNQLeonFNQ Vendor
    edited March 2012
    This sounds like a very tricky one. I would more opted for a auxiliary tank if ever made. From memory with the GU Patrols, when started don't they dump 10L into the main tank. This would be a bit better I think.Correction it was 1.5L in every start.
  • LynchieLynchie Posting Freak
    edited March 2012
    An auxillary tank would be a good idea. Negates the concern about the Rok's fuel guage working correctly, and also doesn't put all your eggs in the one basket so to speak.
  • LeonFNQLeonFNQ Vendor
    edited March 2012
    That's it Lynchie! Wonder if anyone would ever make one.
  • LynchieLynchie Posting Freak
    edited March 2012
    If the old man was still in town I would get him to make one. He made plenty of them in Weipa out of S/Steel for many a fourby along with s/steel snorkels. Had one on his cruiser. Then just a matter of a pump and aftermarket fuel guage and hey presto, dual tanks! I would consider speaking to NQ Engineeering. Couldn't see them having any issues with making one.I may have been misleading about the s/steel fuel tank as it may have been made out steel. I just know he loved using s/steel. Also made a few s/steel exhausts, and some bullbars, trays and trailers. I once tried to convince him of starting up a little fabrication shop for this sort of product. I also had alterer motifs for this :) He is as anal as all hell with quality. He has had alot of photos taken of the current cruiser tray and many an offer to buy it off him. Sorry alittle of topic!
  • davedave Supporting Member
    edited March 2012
    With a tub there aint much room for an aux tank though. Wait a min, I've got a tray.
  • LynchieLynchie Posting Freak
    edited March 2012
    The only problem I can see with an auxillary tank is that it would most likely have to be mounted where the spare tyre is. Though this can be solved by a rear bar tyre carrier combo, which would hit the old hip pocket a few extra grand. Easy fix but not a cheap one, as all things seem to be with the good ol' Rok.
    As you said Dave a tray would make things much easier, thankfully that is not too far away for me. Again, not a cheap option!
  • SamboSambo Forum Addict
    edited March 2012
    Dolium make the Boab fuel tanks and the 60lt one is about $395 or so and can be mounted in the tub. I was thinking of this to use as a supplement when on a trip, with some 8mm hose and a 12v pump from a wreckers yard to top up the main as required.

    Still a lot of money, so will probably stick with Jerry cans.

    We need to start an after market accessory co-op to buy this stuff collectively and share it around. We can all be Communists...!
  • MattyDeeMattyDee Supporting Member
    edited March 2012
    Sambo wrote:

    Still a lot of money, so will probably stick with Jerry cans.

    We need to start an after market accessory co-op to buy this stuff collectively and share it around. We can all be Communists...!

    :D :D
  • LynchieLynchie Posting Freak
    edited March 2012
    Yeah I was thinking about molded tanks. Besides jerry cans, they would be the next cheapest option.
  • tiptoptiptop Junior Member
    edited March 2012
    dave wrote:
    landdog1 wrote:
    Hi i have had long range tanks 3 different cars and what normally happens is with my last car with long range tank holden rodeo 120l tank you drive for hundreds of kms then the gauge would start to work so at half a tank you you had about 40l left, so the DTE would only work when the fuel gauge started to drop below full, until then it will think the tank is full and the DTE will not be accurate, but I am still looking at getting one as I tow a caravan and the more fuel you have the better. Cheers Craig
    As I thought may be the case. I do have a ScangaugeII but I don't think it will be accurate when the tank is not symmetrical (not in the middle section anyway). I suppose you can always use the trip meter to give a better idea of how much fuel you should have because the gauge may indicate 145lts when in fact you might have less than 90-100lts. Nothing's easy. With every action there is a reaction.
    cheers


    The scan gauge would work fine in this setup. They count the amount of fuel used, not measuring the level in the tank. It takes 3-4 tanks to calibrate, once done though I have gone down to .5L and it has been spot on. The only problem is the gauge must be connected every time you drive. No connection = no fuel counting.
  • davedave Supporting Member
    edited March 2012
    tiptop wrote:
    dave wrote:
    landdog1 wrote:
    Hi i have had long range tanks 3 different cars and what normally happens is with my last car with long range tank holden rodeo 120l tank you drive for hundreds of kms then the gauge would start to work so at half a tank you you had about 40l left, so the DTE would only work when the fuel gauge started to drop below full, until then it will think the tank is full and the DTE will not be accurate, but I am still looking at getting one as I tow a caravan and the more fuel you have the better. Cheers Craig
    As I thought may be the case. I do have a ScangaugeII but I don't think it will be accurate when the tank is not symmetrical (not in the middle section anyway). I suppose you can always use the trip meter to give a better idea of how much fuel you should have because the gauge may indicate 145lts when in fact you might have less than 90-100lts. Nothing's easy. With every action there is a reaction.
    cheers


    The scan gauge would work fine in this setup. They count the amount of fuel used, not measuring the level in the tank. It takes 3-4 tanks to calibrate, once done though I have gone down to .5L and it has been spot on. The only problem is the gauge must be connected every time you drive. No connection = no fuel counting.

    Thanks tiptop. Very interesting. I just assumed the scangauge took its reading off the fuel gauge sender, but what you say is great news.
    cheers dave
  • LynchieLynchie Posting Freak
    edited March 2012
    Dave, have you had your long range tank fitted yet mate?
  • davedave Supporting Member
    edited March 2012
    Lynchie78 wrote:
    Dave, have you had your long range tank fitted yet mate?
    No. Not yet, might have wait for the card to tick over as Ash is about to give it a flogging for my snorkel. Also every time I rush in somebody posts something better and cheaper. (Scan Gauge verses Ultra gauge for one) Plus I want to see if 130 litres is the biggest. The other half keeps reminding me that fools rush in where angles fear to tread. The fool me is :P
    cheers dave
  • LynchieLynchie Posting Freak
    edited March 2012
    Yeah, it will take years before there is a good range of aftermarket gear for the Rok. Typical of being a new vehicle to the country. Lots of R & D to be done from manufacturers. Right now very little available and due to this, what is available, is fetching ridiculous $. Some manufacturers would also be waiting to see what sales are like for the Rok before commiting $ to R & D. As much as we may not like it, the sales numbers may not stack up as being viable for some aftermarket manufacturers to put the effort in. Only time will tell. As long as the main companies jump on board and do a reasonable range we should be sorted. Regardless Rok products will likely never match the products available for Hilux's and Navara's. Something we will have to learn to live with.They say that patience is a virtue. Who ever coined that phase obviously didn't have to wait for anything :)
  • AZZAAZZA Member
    edited March 2012
    dave wrote:
    Lynchie78 wrote:
    Dave, have you had your long range tank fitted yet mate?
    No. Not yet, might have wait for the card to tick over as Ash is about to give it a flogging for my snorkel. Also every time I rush in somebody posts something better and cheaper. (Scan Gauge verses Ultra gauge for one) Plus I want to see if 130 litres is the biggest. The other half keeps reminding me that fools rush in where angles fear to tread. The fool me is :P
    cheers dave

    GDay Dave, Brown Davis in Melbourne make their own range of tanks, roll cages race vehicle prep work etc. Their tank is 150lt at $ 1100. + fitting. I will be getting one soon, as we intend to drive around Aus next year.
    Aaron.
  • davedave Supporting Member
    edited March 2012
    AZZA wrote:
    dave wrote:
    Lynchie78 wrote:
    Dave, have you had your long range tank fitted yet mate?
    No. Not yet, might have wait for the card to tick over as Ash is about to give it a flogging for my snorkel. Also every time I rush in somebody posts something better and cheaper. (Scan Gauge verses Ultra gauge for one) Plus I want to see if 130 litres is the biggest. The other half keeps reminding me that fools rush in where angles fear to tread. The fool me is :P
    cheers dave

    GDay Dave, Brown Davis in Melbourne make their own range of tanks, roll cages race vehicle prep work etc. Their tank is 150lt at $ 1100. + fitting. I will be getting one soon, as we intend to drive around Aus next year.
    Aaron.

    Thanks Aaron. I was speaking with them back in Feb. Part number VWAR1, 145ltr replacement tank for $1,142.90 plus freight. Half asleep when I posted 130ltr.
    cheers dave
  • AZZAAZZA Member
    edited November 2012
    Well guys it looks like I'm the Guinea Pig. We fitted a Brown and Davis long range tank on Saturday morning. WELL !! What an experiance. Instructions say 3hrs, it took 4hrs 30min to turn key, a trickey fit. If you fit one yourself DON'T go by the instructions for the breather hoses they will not fit. Trial fit the tank to see where the hoses need to run then lower and fit hoses. Be careful when fitting the pump/ sender unit as I think my float is stuck in the surge tank, therefore I don't have a working fuel guage. The guage is slowly coming up after pumping 140lts of Diesel and a rough off road track to try and shake it free. It is a tight fit !!. Great tank fits well, although it does hang a little low about the same height as the side steps no problem for me but if you don't have side steps it will reduce ground clearance.
    I don't think anyone will make a bigger tank there just is no more room.
  • hungry6hungry6 Posting Freak
    edited November 2012
    I'm thinking of getting one of these, but with an addition 1/2 female thread bolt to the bottom rear seats of tank so I can fit up a water probe. The theory is that if u fill up and there is water present, it will warn you and u can partially drain tank and on your way.
    My problem is time atm, and I dont trust a 18YO apprentice to do it.
    From what u said sounds like it hangs a fair bit down.
  • ICEWOLFICEWOLF Forum Addict
    edited November 2012
    hungry6 wrote:
    From what u said sounds like it hangs a fair bit down.

    Tank protection sounds like a must here! I know what's worse than loosing 80 odd litres of diesel...
  • davedave Supporting Member
    edited November 2012
    I fitted my B&D some months ago. I don't think they hang down any further than the the standard one, but because they are so much longer they effect ramp-over clearances big time. :(

    To cut a long story short, with my 40mm body lift and some tank mods I was able to lift the tank 70mm (now 20mm below chassis rails instead of 90mm) and increase capacity to around 160 litres. :cool:

    As for needing protection; they're made from 2mm thick steel so the manufacturers say they are strong enough. :angel:

    Time shall tell.
  • MattyDeeMattyDee Supporting Member
    edited November 2012
    You have a body lift? What do you mean by 160L?? Aren't the tanks 150L 145 usable?


    VeeDub Amarok 2.0L BiTurbo
  • davedave Supporting Member
    edited November 2012
    MattyDee wrote:
    You have a body lift? What do you mean by 160L?? Aren't the tanks 150L 145 usable?


    VeeDub Amarok 2.0L BiTurbo

    Read 'modified B&D tank'. Sorry about the 160. More like 165 litres if I fill the filler neck.

  • MattyDeeMattyDee Supporting Member
    edited November 2012
    Sorry but I have no idea what your talking about?? Is there a thread on the modified tank? Your car was apart for 6 months???


    VeeDub Amarok 2.0L BiTurbo
  • davedave Supporting Member
    edited November 2012
    MattyDee wrote:
    Sorry but I have no idea what your talking about?? Is there a thread on the modified tank? Your car was apart for 6 months???


    VeeDub Amarok 2.0L BiTurbo

    It's hard to explain if you haven't seen a B&D tank. It has a small 20ltr section that is in front of a cross member restricting it from being lifted. So I cut it off, welded the end of the tank shut, cut off the mounting brackets, raised it straight up 70mm and made new brackets.

    I than gave B&D dimensions to make me a 2nd tank (about 55ltrs) that fits between the gearbox and centre cross members which is connected to the main tank with 25mm hose with a guard. All this and it is still at least 25mm higher than the gearbox cross member.

    This is only the tip of the ice burg to what I've done which I don't normally make public.............few people can relate, are on the same wave length or understand me. :angel:

    My philosophy is that I don't put-up with anything I know I can fix or modify myself.

    I've already said to much that gets more question thrown at me.:blush:
  • LynchieLynchie Posting Freak
    edited November 2012
    dave wrote:
    .............few people can relate, are on the same wave length or understand me.

    Think I can relate to this and feel your pain. Especially the monetary pain. :)
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